What this BLOG is all about.

Someone asked me what this blog is all about. 

Apparently it isn't as clearly defined as I had hoped, so here is an outline:

 It's ALL ABOUT ME !

 ..me and my journey through the eyes of a musician / guitar builder. 

Read everything, I am easily distracted by shiney objects and get off- topic but I'll eventually come around and pick up where I left off.

The main reason for this blog is following up from the website of the same address and that is

 TO SELL CUSTOM SMALL SHOP GUITARS AND MANDOLINS

while having as good a time as I can..

Tools of the Trade

This is just something for the Tool Guys out there.

Most of these were made in the 19th century. (1800's) The chisels and gouges are made of Cast Steel and can hold a super sharp edge for a long time. (click on photo to enlarge)

I use these every day and they never cease to amaze me.

They were passed down to me from my Great Grandfather only after the toolbox was raided by an uncle or two. I have repaired two handles and there are several more to go. Unfortunately, no one believed in the the old saying - "The proper tool for a proper job." Certainly not my ancestors. In the photo at right there are three Mortising Chisels that are meant to be struck, preferably with a Mallet. The two on the right and obviously the second from the left.

No handle yet.

They have a massive tapering socket to allow a matching tapered handle with a generous shoulder to absorb the shock of the hammer blows. They are expected to get damaged and replaced. Also, if you turn the chisel sideways you will notice that it is at least twice the thickness closer to the handle. This is to prevent bending the blade at or near the handle when levering chips out of the mortise. This also is the reason the back of the chisel is radiused.

Paring Chisels on the other hand (the two in the center) are meant to be PUSHED. They will have a very shallow bevel and are meant for finishing cuts. I keep these razor sharp. they don't need the extra mass and steeper bevel. The tang of the handle on these extends at least halfway into the handle and the ferrule at the bottom of the handle prevents the handle from splitting when you drive he tang into the hole. These chisels will last a lifetime, and in point of fact have already lasted almost three lifetimes.

One of our Favorite Mandolins

Pictured is our all Walnut Flat Top Mandolin with traditional adjustable bridge and 

cantilevered fretboard.                                                                      

The neck is solid walnut as are the sides, top and back..It has a resonant bass with vibrancy in the upper registers. It rings like a bell....unfortunately someone else liked it as well and chose too remove it from the wall of the music store that it was consigned to and it was never seen again. 

Book matched American Black Walnut Back, Sides and Sound board

The fretboard and headstock veneer are Macassar Ebony.

BatMandolin - Another of Our Instruments

Bat Mandolin

  Eldery Mandolin player auditioning the BatMandolin

More Old Stuff

This is my latest find.  A 19th century Wooden Block Plane. You can understand why it's named  that. It started out as a BLOCK of wood approx. 10" x 4" x 4"  There are no mechanical adjustments. You simply wedge the blade in a tapered slot by tapping on the tapered wedge to roughly position the blade then tap on the front or back to force the blade deeper (Tap on Front) or shallower (Tap on Back). Then tighten wedge to lock  all parts in place and make a pass to check shaving thickness. Adjust as above for proper curls.

Block Plane

Flat Tops vs Carved Tops

A2 F-Hole Mandolin $495

Walnut "BatMandolin" - $795
Top photo hows Offshore "A" type that has been "Hot Rodded"; Black lacquer finish, Corian custom Bridge and Saddle, Elm Burl Pick guard and Headstock. The top and back are pressed plywood.  I wouldn't take any less than $495 for it now. Sounds much better than s tock with amazing resonance and increased volume due to the 1 pc bridge and saddle.

 Street price fors stock offshore instrument $175-$195

  I don't know about you but I don't think there's enough of a difference in tone or volume between a well constructed flat top Mandolin and a carved top Mandolin to warrant the extra cash. Right hand photo shows my best selling Flat Top The Famous "BatMandolin"  I would pay good money to anyone that would compare this to an $800  Epiphone F5 and tell me thay tone and volume beat any Flat Top on these pages.
  I do agree that more time is required in constructing an F5, particularly in the Scroll. Or as it is called -the $1000 Strap Hook.

And why does every company have to try to re-invent the F5?
If it ain't broke buy an old one.

At least then you are getting antique value, survivability, and aged tone.

Anybody want to take a shot at this one??

  

Headstocks

The Plate on the left is Walnut w/ an Ebony star. The one on the right is Maple w/ no inlay.Headstock Plates are technically a reinforcing veneer of the Neck/Headstock 15 degree scarf joint where the neck bends back to create a pressure point for the strings at the "0 " (zero) fret.

These two have been laser cut and etched. The one on the left is for a Mandolin. 1 1/8" width of neck at the nut. The other is for a Guitar at 1 13/16" at the zero fret.

The laser beam is so thin that I can take the star from one and insert into another for a perfect inlay.

Mix and match woods and various other matreials. eg. MOP or Abalone.

Brass gold or silver. Aluminum which can mimic pewter or silver can also be used.

Or insert an Abalone Star from StewMac from which the pattern was taken. Pretty cool, eh ?!

Typically they would be .125 x 7" x 4"-5" wide. Materials are yours to decide but remember the Olde Tymers would usually match the bridge and the headplate leaving the fingerboard to be Ebony or Rosewood or the client's preference.